Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Transfer Taxes when Buying a home

DEVIATIONS FROM 1% LOCAL TRANSFER TAX

Amended 1/14/2011

The Realty Transfer Tax in Pennsylvania is generally 2% of the sales prices; 1% to the state and 1% to

local government. Some local governments vary their portion. The following is a list of localities that

impose something other than 1%. These figures represent the local portion only; the 1% state portion must

be added for the total amount due.

ALLEGHENY COUNTY
Bellevue Boro – 1½%

Bethel Park Municipality – 1½%

Greentree Boro – 1½%

Hampton Twp – 1½%

McCandless Twp – 1½%

McKeesport City – 2%

Monroeville Municipality – 1½%

Mt Lebanon Municipality – 1½%

Mt Oliver Boro – 2%

O’Hara Twp – 1½%

Penn Hill Municipality – 2%

Pine Twp – 1½%

Pittsburgh, City of / Pittsburgh School District – 3%

Pittsburgh, City of / Baldwin-Whitehall School District – 2½%

Upper St. Clair Twp – 1½%

West Deer Twp – 1½%

Whitehall Boro – 1¼%

BERKS COUNTY
Reading, City of – 4%

CENTRE COUNTY
Ferguson Twp – 1¾%

State College Boro – 1 ¾ %

Taylor Twp – ½%
CHESTER COUNTY
Coatesville, City of – 2%

Tredyffrin Twp – 1½%

CLINTON COUNTY
Colebrook Twp – ½%

East Keating Twp – ½%

DELAWARE COUNTY
Radnor Twp – 1½%

Upper Providence Twp – 2%

ERIE COUNTY
Edinboro Borough – 1½%

LACKAWANNA COUNTY

Scranton, City of – 3%

LUZERNE COUNTY
Kingston Boro – 1½%


Wilkes Barre, City of – 2½%

MERCER COUNTY
Farrell, City of – 2%

Hermitage, City of – 1½%

Sheakleyville Boro – 0%
PHILADELPHIA COUNTY

Philadelphia, City of – 3%

SOMERSET COUNTY

Wellersburg Boro – ½%

WASHINGTON COUNTY

Peters Township – 1½%

Contact The Mortgage Mark with Any Questions!!

www.themortgagemark.com

Four Energy Conservation Myths Costing You Money

Trying to cut back on energy costs? Your “money-saving” tricks may actually be costing you more in long haul.

Myth: Programmable Thermostats Save You Money
Well, they do, but only if you program them to do so. Many people mistakenly believe that these computer-chip, electronic devices will automatically set themselves to operate in the most energy-efficient way. But they don’t. You have to program them so that they stop your ducted air conditioning coming on when it isn’t really needed – at night or when you’re at work or on holiday. So read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and learn how to set your thermostat to suit your particular needs – lowering it by just 1°C can reduce your bill by up to 15 percent.

Myth: Fans Cool a Room
Fans do not actually cool the air in a room, they cool the people in it by creating a wind-chill effect on their skin. So there is no point leaving a fan on when you’re no longer in a room. Instead, treat it like a light and turn it off when you leave the room. Otherwise, you will just be wasting electricity and running up a large bill.

Myth: Computer Screensavers Save Energy
All a screensaver does is prolong the life of your monitor by displaying a moving image while you are not using your computer, as any fixed image left on would eventually “burn” itself into the screen, ruining it. Screensavers do nothing whatsoever to save electricity – in fact, they burn up quite a lot. If you want to save energy, without turning your computer off, check if it has a special energy-saving mode: go to your operating system’s control panel or preferences and explore the power-management options available.





Myth: Stand-By Costs Less Than Turning On and Off
This is certainly not true. Leaving a machine constantly in stand-by mode consumes a surprisingly large amount of electricity. If you want to save energy – and money – you should always turn your computer off at night or when you will be away from it for a long period of time. Remember also to switch off other computer hardware, such as scanners, printers and external hard drives and speakers at the mains. If they are powered via a plugged-in transformer, that will remain on even when the power button on the appliance has been switched off.


Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!

mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

www.themortgagemark.com

Thursday, July 14, 2011

5 Questions to Ask Your Home's Inspector



Most home buyers feel like they are bona fide real estate experts after all the studying up on loans and neighborhoods, online house hunting and open house visiting it takes just to get into contract on a home these days. But for all but the most handy of house hunters, getting into contract and starting the home inspection process only surfaces how little you actually know about the nuts and bolts and brick and mortar of the massive investment you’re about to make: a home!

So, you hire a home inspector, but it seems like they’re speaking an entirely different language - riddled with terms like “serviceable condition” and “conducive to deterioration” - about your dream home! Here are 5 questions you can use to decode your home inspector’s findings into knowledge you can use to make smart decisions as a homebuyer - and homeowner.

1. How bad is it - really? The best home inspectors are pretty even keeled, emotionally speaking. They’re not alarmists that blow little things up into big ones, nor do they try to play down the importance of things. They’re all about the facts. But sometimes, that straightforwardness makes it hard for you, the home’s buyer, to understand what’s a big deal and what isn’t so much - the information you need to know whether to move forward with the deal, whether to renegotiate and what to plan ahead for.

I’ve seen things categorized in home inspection reports under “Health and Safety Hazards” that cost less than $100 to fix, like replacing a faucet that has hot and cold reversed. And I’ve seen one-liners in inspection reports, like “extensive earth-to-wood contact” result, after further inspection, in foundation repair bids pricier than the whole cost of the home!

In many states, home inspectors are not legally able to provide you with a repair bid, but if you attend the inspection and simply ask them whether or not something they say needs fixing is a big deal, nine times out of ten they will verbally give you the information you need to understand the degree to which the issue is a serious problem (or not).

2. Who should I have fix that? I always ask this question of home inspectors, with dual motives. First, very often, the inspector’s response is - “What do you mean? You don’t need to pay someone to fix that. Go down to Home Depot, pick up a ___fill in the blank__, and here’s how you pop it in. Should cost you $15 - tops.” And that’s useful information to know - it eliminates the horror of a laundry list of repairs and maintenance items at the end of an inspection report to know that a number of them are really DIY-type maintenance items. Even buyers who are really uncomfortable doing these things themselves then feel empowered to either (a) watch a few YouTube vids that show them how it’s done, or (b) hire a handyperson to do these small fixes, knowing they shouldn’t be too terribly costly.

And even on the larger repairs, your home inspector might be able to give you a few referrals to the plumbers, electricians or roofers you’ll need to get bids from during your contingency period, which you may be able to use to negotiate with your home’s seller, and to get the work done after you own the place. Dropping the inspector’s name might get you an appointment booked with the urgency you need it in order to get your repair bids and estimates in hand before your contingency or objection period expires.

And same goes for any further inspections they recommend - if neither you nor your agent knows a specialist, as the general home inspector for a few referrals.

3. If this was your house, what would you fix, and when? Your home inspector’s job is to point out everything, within the scope of the inspection, that might need repair, replacement, maintenance or furthe inspection - or seems like it might be on it’s last leg. But they also tend to be experienced enough with homes to know that no home is perfect. Many times, I’ve asked this question about an item the inspector described as “at the end of its serviceable lifetime” and had them say, “I wouldn’t do a thing to it. Just know that it could break in the next 5 months, or in the next 5 years. And keep your home warranty in effect, because that should cover it when it does break.”

This question positions your home inspector to help you:
  • understand what does and doesn’t need to be repaired,
  • prioritize the work you plan to do to your home (and budget or negotiate with the seller accordingly),
  • get used to the constant maintenance that is part and parcel of homeownership, and
  • understand the importance of having a home warranty plan.


4. Can you point that out to me? Often, when you attend the home inspection, you’ll be multi-tasking, taking pictures of the interior, measuring for drapes or furniture, even meeting the neighbors, or fielding several inspectors at a time. Worst case scenario is to get home, open up the inspector’s report and have no clue whatsoever what he or she was referring to when they called out the wax ring that needs replacement or the temperature-pressure release valve that is improperly installed.

Your best bet is to, at the end of the inspection, while you’re all still in the property, just ask the inspector to take 10 or 15 minutes and walk you through the place, pointing out all the items they’ve noted need repair, maintenance or further inspection. When you get the report, then, you’ll know what and where the various items belong. (One more best practice is to choose an inspector who takes digital pictures and inserts them into their reports!)

5. Can you show me how to work that? Many home inspectors are delighted to show you how to operate various mechanical or other systems in your home, and will walk you through the steps of operating everything from your thermostat, to your water heater, to your stove and dishwasher - and especially the emergency shutoffs for your gas, water and electrical utilities. This one single item is such a time and stress saver it alone is worth the lost income of missing a day of work to attend your inspections. 


Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!!

www.themortgagemark.com

mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Paying Off A Mortgage Early? Six Things To Consider

Paying Off A Mortgage Early? Six Things To Consider:

Does your employer match any retirement savings you save? If yes, are you maxing out the amount you can contribute? Employer-matched contributions to a retirement plan are often the wisest investment you can make.

Do you have any other debt other than your mortgage? If yes, then most likely it will make sense to try to pay that debt off before trying to pay off your mortgage early.



Do you have at least 24 months of living expenses in liquid assets? Many people suggest a lower number, but after talking with plenty of people who used to have 6-months savings three years ago, I have raised my suggested number from 6 months to 24 months of savings. Yes, I know that is conservative.

Do you currently owe more on your mortgage than your home is worth? If yes, then ask yourself the question of how much you really enjoy living in that particular house. Would you be willing to buy it again for more than it is worth now?

Does the amount of your mortgage bother you? Do you find yourself up late at night worrying about how you are ever going to get out of debt and pay off your mortgage? If yes, what value is peace of mind to you?

Do you think you could get a better return on your money if you invested it in other things? Paying off your mortgage early is really an investment decision. When you line up your various investment track records and future choices, how well does paying off your mortgage early stack up with your other options?


Summary — Is Paying Off Your Mortgage Early A Good Idea?
It depends. I have listened to the experts for years debate this topic and in the end it all comes down to a very personal decision that is not solely based on dollars and cents and returns on investment. At the end of the day, I have seen very smart people choose both sides: some to pay off a mortgage and some to continue to pay “normally.”
Paying off a mortgage early isn’t a matter of making a wise decision — it is most often a matter of personal preference.

No matter what the experts tell you.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!!!

www.themortgagemark.com   mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Friday, June 17, 2011

5 Surprising Credit Report Errors You Must Fix



In a recent study, 19 percent of American consumers who reported finding an error in their credit reports opted not to dispute the error, even when they were offered $5 to file the dispute! Why not? Well, some said they thought the error was too minor to impact their score, while others said the dispute process seemed too difficult to tackle.
The fact is, when you’re trying to qualify for a home loan, some of the items on your credit report that can pose a threat to your home finance plans might surprise you. Here are 5 surprising credit report entries you absolutely must fix, especially when you are in the process of buying or refinancing a home.
1. Account balances you recently paid down or off. If you’ve just finished paying a bill down or off, you might not dispute the elevated balance that remains on your credit report because it’s not actually an error, per se. But the whole point of paying the balance down was to bring down your credit utilization ratio, which is a heavily weighted factor in your overall credit score.
Correcting the actual balances of your outstanding bills downward to account for your recent pay-down efforts poses such a large potential improvement impact for your credit score that it might even be worth paying your mortgage professional the $30 to $50 it will cost for them to initiate a Rapid Rescore, which can update your reports to reflect your slimmed-down balances in about 72 hours, compared with the 30 to 60 days you’d expect to wait to see results from a traditional dispute or update.
2. Incorrect former addresses. Of the 19 percent of consumers who spotted an error on their report in the study, nearly 40 percent of those errors were in what the credit bureaus call “header data," things like the consumer's previous street address. Many elected not to dispute these sorts of line items because the error doesn't seem like it would impact their credit score. While an inaccurate address might not have much to do with your score, it can still wave a red flag, signaling issues that can foul-up your mortgage application.
A misspelling in an otherwise correct street name should not cause you grave concern. But if the previous addresses listed are in the wrong city or state, or otherwise come out of nowhere, they might signal that someone has used your name and/or social security number to obtain credit at a different address. Credit card fraud and identity theft are difficult to unravel when you’re not seeking credit; they are much more complicated to resolve when the credit stakes are high and the underwriter as picky as they are in the course of applying for a mortgage.
Also, current and previous addresses that conflict with where you’ve told the lender you live(d) can raise suspicion that you might be buying a second or rental home, rather than the owner-occupied home you say you’re trying to buy; that can provoke a lender to demand that you ante up more down payment dough, make you jump through greater hoops to prove your true address or even stop you from qualifying for the loan altogether.
3. Bills that were never yours in the first place. As with completely bizarre former addresses, accounts listed on your credit report that you never opened in the first place can be a red flag that tips you to the fact that someone else might have stolen your identity and opened a credit card or account in your name. If you find one of these items on one credit bureau report, but it’s currently closed or has a zero balance, you might be tempted to let it slide, thinking it can’t move the needle on your credit score. In reality, though, if someone is using your identity to obtain credit and you fail to dispute that the bills belong to you, they might continue to use it, which can cause you real problems. Of course, if the bills weren’t paid on time or have been placed in collection, disputing the accounts’ presence on your credit report is a must.
If they were paid on time every time, though, the analysis might be different. Unfortunately, instituting a fraud-based credit freeze or fraud alert on your credit reports at the same time as you’re applying for a mortgage can complicate your own loan qualification process significantly. If you find yourself in this situation, carefully scrutinize the rest of your report and the credit reports you receive from the other bureaus to detect whether other fraudulent accounts exist, then consult with your mortgage professional on exactly when and how you should go about disputing the accounts which weren’t actually yours.
4. Limits listed as lower than they really are. As with closed accounts that were never yours in the first place, accounts that are listed on your credit report as having limits that are lower than they really are might seem like a battle not worth fighting. But the fact is that only two inputs go into the credit utilization ratio that comprises about 30 percent of your FICO score: how much credit you have available, and how much credit you have used. So, if you have account balances that show up on your credit reports as lower than they actually are (i.e., that you have less credit available to use), that inaccuracy can skew your credit score and screw up your mortgage qualifying efforts. Big time.
5. Derogatory items that should have aged off. Very few of us are perfect, and you might have worked hard to pay your bills on time in an effort to overcome a credit ding from back in the days. Although the impact a derogatory item has on your credit score wanes over time, it’s still your right (and your responsibility) to make sure negative items disappear from your credit report when they are supposed to – that’s 7 years for a late payment, 10 years for a bankruptcy. If you are still seeing credit dings on your report after more than the relevant time frame has elapsed, dispute them and claim the rehabbed credit (and score) you’ve since earned.
It’s not very common that credit report disputes cause dramatic changes in credit score, but again, many borrowers aren’t disputing these sorts of items they don’t realize could make a difference in their homebuying or refinancing prospect.
Beyond that, if you’re close to a credit tier cutoff, like 620-640 or 740-760, depending on your loan type, even a few points’ difference can be the difference in qualifying for a home or not, or paying a higher mortgage interest rate for the life of your loan. For these reasons, it behooves every potential borrower to be proactive in spotting and correcting these 5 must-dispute errors.


Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!!!


Thursday, June 16, 2011

The Mortgage Refi Boom Of 2011 Has Officially Begun


Mortgage rates are dropping. There's an MBS winning streak going on.

Here Comes The Refi Boom Of 2011

We're on the precipice of something big. A wave of uncertainty about Greece and its debt, plus weaker-than-expected economic data at home, has dropped conforming 30-year fixed rate mortgage rates to levels not seen since December 2, 2010.
Click here to get a rate quote.
It's been 8 straight weeks that mortgage rates have dropped. 8 weeks. Not even last year's epic Refi Boom produced a winning streak of 8 weeks. This year's streak is historic.
The 30-year fixed rate mortgage now averages 4.49% nationally. It's down 42 basis points -- or 0.42% -- since early-April. For every $100,000 borrowed, that yields a monthly payment difference of $25.24.
Adjustable-rate mortgages have shed even more, giving back 50 basis points since the streak began.

Mortgage Rates Vary By Region

Relative to earlier this year, it's an excellent time refinance a home or buy a new one. Mortgage rates are down and may even be lower than what Freddie Mac reports in its survey. This is because Freddie Mac gives a national average. Locally, rates may be lower or higher.
Click here to get a rate quote for your area.
  • Northeast Region Average : 4.49 with 0.6 points
  • Southeast Region Average : 4.52 with 0.8 points
  • North Central Region Average : 4.52 with 0.6 points
  • Southeast Region Average : 4.52 with 0.6 points
  • West Region Average : 4.45 with 0.8 points
You'll notice that, in the West Region, rates tend to be lowest and fees tend to be highest. This is because loan officers in the West Region tend to quote loans with "1 point" standard. This results in lower rates for borrowers and applicants, but higher fees.
The opposite is true in the North Central Region where fees tend to be lower, and rates tend to be higher.
Neither system is better or worse -- choose the setup that works best for you. If getting the absolute lowest mortgage rate is more important to you than getting the absolute lowest fees, for example, just ask for it. Your loan officer should be able to walk you through your options.
Click here to get a rate quote.

There's a Refi Boom Starting. Don't Watch It Pass.

Mortgage rates look like they'll fall some more, but don't sit by and wait for something better.
History has shown that mortgage rates can -- and do! -- change quickly. And because rates are unnaturally low to begin with, once they start to worsen, they should worsen in a hurry.
Exploit today's market while you still can. Click here to get a rate quote and be a part of this year's blooming Refi Boom.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!

www.themortgagemark.com

mark@themortgagemark.com

Monday, June 13, 2011

Fannie to inspect delinquent homes

If you happen to see a contractor walking around your house, taking pictures, don't panic. It's just your lender "inspecting" your property.
According to new rules announced by Fannie Mae this week, mortgage servicers will be required to "order" a "property inspection" no later than 45 days after a homeowner misses a mortgage payment. "The servicer must continue to obtain property inspections every 30 days thereafter" until the delinquency is resolved.
If the servicer determines that the property is abandoned "the servicer must perform an interior inspection upon confirmation of abandonment," according to Fannie's guidelines, which go into effect on Sept.1
Fannie's current policy requires inspections only when servicers are unable to reach delinquent borrowers or when they determine the borrower isn't willing to try to work out a solution. But the inspections are not required until the mortgage is 135 days delinquent or the servicer begins foreclosure proceedings.
The new policy is an extra effort to try to protect Fannie's investment in these assets. But has Fannie heard of the widely reported stories of banks breaking into people's homes to "inspect" and "secure" them, claiming the homes are vacant when they are not?
For example, there is the story Nancy Jacobini in Orlando. Late last year she called 911, desperately asking for help as a man tried to break into her house. After police arrived, she learned that the man was a contractor who wanted to "secure" her home on behalf of her lender, Chase. The inspector said he thought the house was vacant. A Chase spokeswoman has told me this was an isolated mistake and that they have apologized to Jacobini.
Speaking of mistakes, you might want to know that some of these lender/servicer break-in cases that have been reported over the last two years involved homeowners who were current on their mortgages.
But let's get back to the new policy.
First, it's important to understand how this works and the number of people involved in this process. Servicers don't hire and train their own inspectors. They hire a property management company, which then hires contractors to go out and do the "inspections."
The question is how does the servicer's inspector determine whether a home is vacant before securing it? Do they peek through your window? Do they assume your home is vacant if you haven't mowed your grass and happen to be on vacation?
A Fannie spokeswoman says the process involves various steps and it includes checking to see if utilities are on, if there are people in the house and if there is furniture in the property.
But how do you know if there is furniture in the property before you enter the house?
The spokeswoman declined further comment beyond what is explained in the guidelines.
According to the guidelines, "The servicer must be able to obtain a signed copy of the inspection report that first reported the vacancy, in which the person who actually performed the inspection certifies that he or she has personally gone to the property location and confirmed that the property is vacant."
To avoid any misunderstandings, on top of paying your mortgage you should probably make sure you pay the utility bills before you go out of town.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any Questions!!

mwilkins@capitalfmc.com
www.themortgagemark.com