Monday, August 30, 2010

FHA monthly mortgage insurance premiums to rise

FHA monthly mortgage insurance premiums to rise

There are many posts on the internet about FHA MIP rising to 1.55% that is factually inaccurate. The act signed into law on August 14, 2010 (HR 5981) does not state FHA monthly mortgage insurance premium (MIP) is increasing to 1.55% – it simply states MIP “may” be increased to a maximum of 1.55% (of the loan amount per year) by the commissioner without further need for congressional approval.


Currently no official FHA announcement has been published as to exactly how much MIP will increase. There has, however, been printed and spoken information circulated stating the increase on FHA monthly insurance will be to .90% on loans with less than 5% down payment and 85% on loans with 5% or more down payment.


On August 10th Deputy Assistant Secretary Vicki Bott sent a letter which ended with an italicized paragraph including the statement that on October 4th 2010 FHA MIP would increase. “FHA’s upfront mortgage insurance premium will be adjusted down to 100 basis points on all amortization terms and the annual mortgage insurance premium will increase to 85-90 basis points on amortization terms greater than 15 years.”



Statements that indicate the Federal Housing Authority will be adjusting the monthly MIP to 1.55% are unfounded and not factual. A final announcement from FHA will be made prior to the October 4th date of implementation.



HR 5981 - Amends the National Housing Act with respect to requirements for the insurance of mortgages secured by a one- to four-family dwelling which are obligations of the Mutual Mortgage Insurance Fund. Authorizes the Secretary of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) to establish and collect annual premium payments of up to 1.5% of the remaining insured principal balance on such a dwelling.


It also authorizes an annual premium of up to 1.55% of the remaining insured principal balance of any 30-year mortgage on such a dwelling involving an original principal obligation greater than 95% percent of such value. (Currently, an annual premium of up to 0.55% of the remaining insured principal balance on such a mortgage is required.) Authorizes the Secretary to adjust the amount of any initial or annual premium through notice published in the Federal Register or mortgagee letter, which shall establish the effective date of any such adjustment.

Contact me with any questions!   http://www.themortgagemark.com/
 
mark@themortgagemark.com

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Penn State/Navy Yard energy project wins $129 million federal grant

By Susan Snyder
INQUIRER STAFF WRITER


In a highly competitive grant process, a research consortium led by Penn State won up to $129 million in federal funding to develop a "energy innovation hub" at the Philadelphia Navy Yard aimed at saving energy and cutting pollution.




"This will have a huge impact on Philadelphia and the region, just in the amount of job creation that should come from this alone," said Henry C. Foley, vice president for Research and Dean of the Graduate School at Penn State.



Foley, who will lead the Penn State research team also including researchers from Princeton, Rutgers, the University of Pennsylvania, Drexel and other institutions, said the project will focus on creating more energy efficient buildings and training workers to both retrofit and do new construction in the efficient ways.



"It's really a technological game changer," Foley said this afternoon in a brief telephone interview, before going into a meeting with Mayor Nutter and Penn State President Graham Spanier.



The grant, to be paid out over the next five years, is the largest in Penn State's history. It largely comes from the Department of Energy with $7 million from three other federal agencies.



The state of Pennsylvania through Gov. Rendell also will kick in $30 million, which state officials believe may have helped Penn State win the grant.



The Department of Energy could not be reached for comment today on how many other groups applied, but Crain's New York Business reported that the project beat out a "consortium of more than 100 education, nonprofit, government and industry groups," which had claimed the project would create 76,000 jobs at Syracuse University.



It becomes the second major energy hub project to be funded by the federal government. A project focused on solar energy will be based in California.



Foley said he was thrilled with the Navy Yard location because it includes more than 200 buildings and operates an independent electric microgrid as a "virtual municipality" where the new technologies can be tested and validated.



"It's a little city within a city... with very old buildings we can experiment on," he said.



Researchers from academia, U.S. National Laboratories and the private sector will use the funding to develop energy efficient building designs, officials said.



The project is expected to begin by Oct. 30.



"This funding is great news for the Commonwealth and is a crucial step towards creating a more sustainable and environmentally friendly America," Sen. Casey, (D-Pa) said in a prepared statement. "With this support, the consortium can focus on energy efficiency and innovation and assist communities in reducing their energy use and creating good jobs for Pennsylvanians."



Penn State officials, who were readying an announcement of their own about the project this afternoon, also said they were pleased.



"It's a great partnership among a number of researchers from academia, the private sector and national laboratories. It's a great collaboration for a solid project that will help the environment," said Penn State spokeswoman Annemarie Mountz.



Foley said the project "will spur real innovation and job growth for Philadelphia, the region and the nation. We have a world class team of universities, corporations, and economic development entities that made this proposal come to life. There is no better place to do this work than in the Philadelphia Navy Yard."



Buildings account for nearly 40 percent of U.S. energy consumption and carbon emissions. The research could lead to reduced energy use and bills, less pollution and more jobs in the building efficiency industry, officials said.



Gov. Rendell and Sen. Arlen Specter also praised the project in statements yesterday.



DOE Secretary underscored the importance of the energy hubs in a press release.



"The Energy Innovation Hubs are a key part of our effort to harness the power of American ingenuity to achieve transformative energy breakthroughs," said Secretary Chu. "By bringing together some of our brightest minds, we can develop cutting-edge building energy efficiency technologies that will reduce energy bills, cut carbon pollution, and create jobs. This important investment will help Philadelphia become a leader in the global clean energy economy."

http://www.themortgagemark.com/

Monday, August 16, 2010

Single mom Qualifying for FHA loan




There are several considerations when a single parent comes to us to discuss purchasing a home and their financing options.
FHA is a great mortgage program for many single parents because of it’s flexibility. There are some qualifying details that are specific to Single Parents that you should consider:
  • Child Support and Alimony must be documented for the past 12 months.  We will need to see cancelled checks, documented deposits in your account, or court records from the State showing that you’ve received at least 12 months of support in order to count it as a “stable” income source.
  • It must be continuing for at least 36 more months after closing.  So if support will continue until your child is 18, and the child is 16 – we can not count that income.
  • You can get a gift for the down payment
  • You need to have a credit score of 640
  • You can put a parent, or other family member on the loan to help you qualify
  • We can not count rent you might receive from a roommate
If you were obligated on a mortgage with your ex-spouse, and you were NOT removed from the mortgage, we will count that payment against you. Often times, an attorney will advise you to quick claim deed the property to your ex-spouse.  This only takes you off of the DEED, if you were on the NOTE – you are still obligated for the mortgage.  Your spouse would have to refinance and take you OFF of the note, or sell the property,  to truly take that obligation off of you.
Court Recorded Seperation Agreements, stating that the other person is responsible for the debt, does NOT take the liability off of you.
If there’s a CAR payment, or another type of debt that you are still on the note for… and you can provide 12 months of cancelled checks showing where the other person is making the payments… we can SOMETIMES get that payment waived (in other words we might not have to count it as a debt when we are qualifying you).

Contact me today to see if you can qualify!  mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

http://www.themortgagemark.com 

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Mortgage Definition: UFMIP (Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premium)


Today’s Mortgage Definition is: UFMIP

Main Entry: u · f · m · i · p
Pronunciation: : \ˈyü ·ˈef · ˈem · ˈī · ˈpē \

UFMIP and MI – A Simple Definition:
UFMIP stands for Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premium and anyone who takes out an FHA loan is required to pay the premium. This lump sum is allowed to be financed into the loan, so you don’t have to actually write a check for it at closing – but make no mistake, you are still paying it. MI stands for Mortgage Insurance (in the case of FHA loans, this is the amount of money that you pay each month) and MI is diffferent than UFMIP. With FHA loans, you are required to pay both UFMIP and MI.

UFMIP and MI – An Expanded Definition:
Many people are aware that FHA doesn’t actually loan you money when you get an FHA loan, they only insure your loan. The insurance does the borrower no good, the insurance is in the event of a default, then FHA agrees to pay the lender, not the borrower.

And for this insurance guarantee (having an FHA insured loan), the person who wants an FHA loan gets to make insurance premium payments in the form of UFMIP and MI.

For years, HUD has required that anyone getting an FHA loan pay both UFMIP and MI so that is nothing new. It is also somewhat common (every couple of years or so) for HUD to adjust either the UFMIP requirement and/or the MI requirement which makes FHA loans either slightly more or less expensive depending on the adjustment.

Recently, HUD has made an announcement that the MI requirement will rise from .55% (annually) of the loan amount to .85 – .9% and has lowered the UFMIP requirement from 2.25%, down to 1%.

Some simple calculations of what UFMIP and MI requirements are going to be effective September 7, 2010 on a $200,000 mortgage:

UFMIP = $2,000
MI = $1,800 / year paid monthly ($150/month)
The net change is that on an overall basis, it is going to be more expensive to get an FHA loan. The UFMIP requirements went down, but the monthly MI increased and the overall effect is that your monthly mortgage payment will now be higher with FHA loans due to higher mortgage insurance costs.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!

http://www.themortgagemark.com

mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Thursday, August 5, 2010

101 Ways to Improve your Credit Score

101 Ways to Improve Your Credit Score

You want to buy a house, a car, apply for a loan; pretty much anything these days require good credit. While some people may be in denial that the credit system should have this much influence on your life – the fact of the matter is that good credit goes a long way.



So why not improve it? Even if you have good credit, excellent credit will get you better mortgage rates on your home loan, potentially saving you thousands of dollars. Here are 101 tips to help you do just that – everything you ever wanted to know to be financially successful.



1.Pay your bills on time. Duh right? But this can significantly help your score, even if you make the minimum payment.

2.Keep your credit card balances low. Avoid owing a lot of money, makes payment time less miserable.

3.Don’t close unused credit card accounts. It lowers your credit score when they lose records on previous transactions – which happens when you close a card.

4.Avoid temptation and cut extra credit cards. It’s just too easy to charge on one more… And even easier to forget that 5th credit card bill.

5.Only keep bare minimum of credit cards available for charge. Finding a wallet big enough to contain all your credit cards is probably not the best idea in terms of controlled spending.

6.Don’t open extra credit card accounts. That 10% off your first purchase is probably not the best idea if you’re only going to use it once or twice.

7.Make sure you shop around for the best rate on a credit card. There’s no need to donate extra money towards the credit card companies.

8.Make sure you receive all the cards you applied for. You don’t want to take a chance that someone else got the one lost in the mail.

9.Keep track of where all your credit cards are.

10.Utilize free credit reports by going to annualcreditreport.com.

11.Check your credit report 3 times a year to monitor any identity theft or security issues. But be sure to stagger these reports so you can monitor it over time.

12.Opt for paperless statements for better security and to save trees.

13.Don’t buy bigger things because you can charge it, debt affects your credit score as well.

14.Don’t charge items you need months to pay off and isn’t a necessity.

15.Check around for the best interest rates on your home loan before going with that mortgage company.

16.If you’re divorced, make sure to separate your accounts after the divorce.

17.Start building your independent credit as soon as possible.

18.For those who are not in love, try to marry someone who has not declared bankruptcy – or even better, with excellent credit.

19.Meticulously examine your credit report and make sure to remove any inaccuracies.

20.Check back to make sure inaccuracies on your report has actually been removed.

21.Avoid too many inquires. Potential creditors will inquire about your credit score, too many in a short amount of time can affect it.

22.Don’t apply for too many credit cards, inquires, debt, multiple liabilities, etc all negatively impact your score.

23.Buy within your means.

24.Don’t buy that car, house, whatever that’s just out of your range.

25.Don’t put yourself in stressful debt situations.

26.Charge what you can pay off quickly.

27.Don’t skip payments; even paying the bare minimum is better.

28.Don’t default on a loan.

29.Don’t declare bankruptcy.

30.Lower your monthly payment by charging less and buying what you can afford.

31.Talk to your bank and try to waive extra fees and charges.

32.Avoid late fees. Banks charge around $40 per late payment – ouch!

33.Try and get late fees waived from your bank.

34.Avoid overdrafts.

35.Get overdraft protection.

36.Avoid signing up for extra monthly services you don’t need.

37.Evaluate all existing bills from monthly services; are you getting a lot of enjoyment from all of them?

38.Look into refinancing with a lower mortgage rate, interest rates are at a record low.

39.Talk to your creditors if you can’t make a payment ahead of time, they may allow you one freebie in return for a loan extension.

40.Don’t avoid mounting payments; procrastination often leads to more late fees.

41.Don’t close accounts with good payment history.

42.Remember while the credit reports are free, the actual score may not be. Quizzle offers your score for free without any credit card information.

43.Try not to carry a monthly balance if you don’t have to.

44.Don’t apply for more credit cards in an attempt to combat existing mounting debt.

45.Request to be an authorized user on your spouse’s accounts if they have good credit.

46.Avoid charge-off accounts, negative items such as this and bankruptcies can stay on your credit report for 7 years – ouch!

47.Take less vacations each year to pay off debt – it’s no fun, but it’ll give you a better rate on a mortgage later on.

48.Don’t exceed your credit limit. Seriously, that last purchase just isn’t worth it sometimes.

49.Look into secure credit cards to prevent overdraft fees which lower your credit score. Secure credit cards make you pay upfront, so your credit card bill “payments” are just deducted from what you’ve already paid.

50.Narrow what you buy with credit cards and find the right rewards program for that. For example, if you’re a student, get a card for what you spend the most money on – say books, and use that credit card only on books, and find a rewards program that offers more cash back on books. This way you’re not overcharging and letting debt get out of control.

51.Try not to charge over 30% of your credit limit, and never charge more than what you can pay off within a short amount of time.

52.Never use your credit cards for an impulse buy.

53.Don’t incur debt that generates interest – this makes monthly payments and budgeting far more difficult as it’s increasing the owed amount beyond what you’re spending.

54.Establish a bill paying day each month so you don’t forget any, and it’s a consistent method of preventing procrastination.

55.Build credit history – approximately 15% of your credit score comes from the length of your credit history.

56.Don’t be more than 30 days late on a credit card. If you have to be late on a card – your credit score isn’t affected until after 30 days.

57.Find a reputable credit counseling place for financial advice if you need it.

58.Be educated in your purchases and financial situation.

59.Watch out for future interest rates – many credit card companies offer 0% APR, but that goes up into an astronomical rate after the 12 months.

60.Don’t practice credit card arbitrage. This is when you borrow money from one credit card account and use it to invest in other places while paying this card off with another one that has 0% APR. While making money from your good credit may sound like a good idea – the juggling often leads to missed payments or opening too many credit card accounts which lower your score.

61.Don’t subscribe at freecreditreport.com if you don’t want to enter credit card numbers and have to cancel later.

62.Go to Quizzle if you want a free credit score (many other free credit reports charge you for the score).

63.Watch forms of “revolving credit” which lowers your credit if you have a high withstanding debt balance.

64.Don’t open accounts too rapidly and close together.

65.Checking your own credit report and score does not count as an inquiry which lowers your score.

66.Have a healthy balance of different types of loans and credit cards. Too many credit cards or too much taken out on a loan may hurt your credit score.

67.Set a goal of a credit score above 700 to encourage you to check it the 3 times a year to see if you’ve reached it.

68.Your salary does not affect your credit score, so even if your debt is relatively small compared to your income – charging over 50% of your credit limit still affects your score negatively.

69.Your age and location also does not affect your credit score, so build your credit with positive habits early.

70.For those with existing good credit scores – try using to leverage a good interest rate from your credit card company (but keep in mind they may use a different scoring system).

71.Do not cosign a loan with someone with bad credit.

72.Inquires from yourself or employers pulling reports does not affect your credit score.

73.Utilize your credit cards in a way that spreads out debt, so the amounts owed are low on each card.

74.Never close a credit card that still has a balance.

75.Don’t close your only credit card left with available credit.

76.Don’t close your only credit card.

77.Watch out for the universal default clause that allows creditors to increase your interest rate.

78.Make sure the grace period is long enough for what you need.

79.Make credit card and bill payments a few days before the due date to ensure it credits you properly and on time.

80.Don’t write bad checks. Bounced checks are tracked by banking systems and can affect your credit score.

81.If you already have bad credit, look into lenders that offer loans with flexibility, such as the FHA Express.

82.Get a co-signer with good credit to help you get that loan.

83.Try to keep a consistent employment record. Switching jobs every other month makes you look flighty to a potential lender regardless of credit scores.

84.Set an amount you can pay down your debt each month. Then make that the first payment you make when it comes time.

85.Pay down all high balanced credit cards equally – it’s ok to have remaining balances on all of them if it’s all low (this is better than 2 maxed out credit cards).

86.Make sure you know your limits on credit cards – if your limit is much lower than you thought (making your balance relatively higher), that may be attributing to your low credit score.

87.If you have old cards that never get used, use them periodically so that they are still getting as much weight in the credit scoring formula.

88.Charge small amounts with the old cards you never use, and pay it off quickly.

89.Lower your collection amounts – if you have inaccuracies on your credit report, consistently check and dispute them so you don’t have an outstanding collection amount.

90.If you miss one payment, or know you’re going to miss one, see if your lender will simply erase that from your credit history (providing that you’ve been a great borrower).

91.When reading your credit report: watch out for accounts that don’t say “current” or “paid as agreed”. Comments such as “paid charge-off” may hurt your credit, so make sure to dispute the wrongful listings.

92.If you see accounts listed as unpaid on your credit report, and you declared bankruptcy since then, make sure to correct the bureaus.

93.Credit limits on your credit report shown lower than they actually are, need to be disputed.

94.Negative items that are older than 7 years should have fallen off your report. (10 years for bankruptcy)

95.Don’t focus on misspellings of your name on credit reports (if identity theft is related then you’ll see open accounts you don’t recognize long before that).

96.Be patient. While changing your habits and budgeting hardcore is painfully clear to you, this takes awhile to show up on your credit score.

97.For beginners in building their credit – look into department store credit cards. These may be easier to get and also restrict where you can use it at, often only in that store.

98.Avoid credit repair scams. You can repair your credit through good budgeting and reasonable purchasing; don’t believe bad credit scores can be wiped away magically.

99.Don’t pay for multiple credit scores from different places. FICO score is the major one, but don’t feel like you need to pay for all of them.

100.Employers checking on your score when you apply for a job cannot affect your credit score negatively.

101.Having good credit is not rocket science. Budget well, keep track, and be educated in your finances and a good score will naturally follow. Go to Quizzle for a free credit score/report today to start managing your finances
 
Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions    http://www.themortgagemark.com/  
 
mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Was my loan funded by Fannie, Freddie or neither?


Posted: 02 Aug 2010 09:38 AM PDT

I have likely sent more than 200 files this year alone to Karen in my office with a sticky note that says, “Fannie / Freddie?” She will send it back to me, most of the time circling one of them, or writing “neither” right below.

Everyone who owns a TV or radio recognizes by now these names as mortgage lenders. Most also associate them closely with what went wrong the past few years. Did they lend too liberally? Most agree that they did. Do they still? The jury’s out on that one. Who made them do it? Well, let’s not talk politics. Did they act alone? Not a chance.

That being said, most people are unaware that their own mortgage was likely funded by one of them.

When I ask a client if theirs is a Freddie or Fannie backed loan, the most common response I get is “I don’t think so.” And yet, in the past decade over half of all loans and most fixed rate loans (over 90%) were funded by one of those two giant lenders.

So how is it that I don’t know who lent me the money? Here’s why: The lender you send your payments to is simply servicing the loan for Fannie or Freddie. It collects payments, works out tough situations, and arranges the payoffs when that time comes. Fannie or Freddie lent the money behind the scenes and earns the return or takes the loss net of the servicing fees of the bank. It’s a good system. Each organization specializes in what it does best. At least that’s how it’s designed. Losses are reserved for those who take the risk and have the potential to reap the reward.

So the odds are pretty good that your loan is backed by Freddie or Fannie. And that’s okay. It doesn’t make you a bad person if it is. It’s just a fact—and, as it turns out, one that may be of some benefit to you now.

Here’s the point: If your loan was funded by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac there may be refinance options available to you that otherwise would not exist, and if you are paying on time, you will likely be eligible for them.

You can check your loan here:

Does Fannie Mae Own Your Mortgage? Loan Lookup Tool

Avoiding Foreclosure – Does Freddie Mac Own Your Mortgage?

(If you don’t find yours here, call your lender. And be sure that they’re sure—sometimes legitimate matches don’t show up)

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!   http://www.themortgagemark.com/ 
 
mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Five Types of Refinance Loans

Five Types of Refinance Loans






With mortgage rates hovering at or near record lows, there’s been a lot of interest in refinancing lately.

Heck, you may be able to lower your interest rate by 1% or more, resulting in some serious savings every month.

But when inquiring about a refinance, you may be wondering which type is right for you in your current situation.



So let’s take a look at five different types of refinance loans:

Rate and Term Refinance

The rate and term refinance is is the most common type of refinance, where the original loan is paid off and replaced with a fresh loan with a new rate and set of terms.

For example, you may refinance your adjustable-rate mortgage and opt for a 30-year fixed instead to take advantage of the stability.

This type of refinance is perfect for those simply looking to lower their rate and/or change loan programs.

Cash Out Refinance

On the other hand, if you’re in need of cash, a cash-out refinance might be just the ticket.

It involves pulling out equity from your home, resulting in a higher loan balance. Ideally, you can pull out cash and snag a lower interest rate all at the same time.

Of course, you’ll be stuck with a larger loan amount, which will raise your monthly mortgage payment. However, you may be able to offset that rise with a lower interest rate on the new loan.

Cash In Refinance

There are times when you may want (or need) to bring in cash while refinancing, perhaps to keep the loan amount below a certain threshold or the loan-to-value below a certain limit.

A cash-in refinance allows you to do just that, resulting in a smaller loan amount with a reduced monthly payment.



Home Affordable Refinance (HARP)

This next refinance option was born out of the ongoing mortgage crisis.

The Home Affordable Refinance Program allows struggling borrowers to refinance up to 125% of the value of their home, helping “underwater” homeowners take advantage of the low interest rates on offer.

But the mortgage must be current, tied to a 1-4 unit owner-occupied home, and guaranteed by either Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.

Short Refinance

Lastly, a short refinance is a transaction in which your bank or mortgage lender agrees to pay off your existing mortgage and replace it with new a loan with a reduced balance, essentially helping you avoid foreclosure.

They aren’t easy to come by, but some lenders may be offering them as an alternative to a short sale, or worse, foreclosure.

Be sure to go over all your options with your loan officer or mortgage broker to ensure you end up with the right product.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions  http://www.themortgagemark.com/
 
mwilkins@capitalfmc.com

Monday, August 2, 2010

Mortgage Definition: No Money Down Mortgage



Today’s Mortgage Definition is: No Money Down Mortgage
Main Entry: no mo·ney down mort·gage
Pronunciation: : \ˈnō ·ˈ mə-nē · ˈdaun ˈ· mȯr-gij\
No Money Down Mortgage – A Simple Definition:
A no money down mortgage means that it is possible to get financing for a home where you are not required by the lender to make a down payment.
Essentially, if you qualify for a no money down mortgage you can agree to buy the home and not be required to make a down payment.


You may need to cover the closing costs or other associated fees (unless you get the seller to pay them on your behalf), but are not required to make a down payment.
No Money Down Mortgage – An Expanded Definition:
One of the most common questions I get today is “can I get a mortgage with no money down”? And the answer is…
Maybe.
No money down mortgage options used to be plentiful – there were multiple programs that would allow you to buy a home without robbing your IRA or begging your parents for a gift. But with the credit crunch and tighter guidelines, many programs that used to be available have been eliminated.
Except for two.
The VA loan program and the USDA loan program both have no money down options available for people who can qualify for their programs.
The VA No Money Down Program
VA Loan
VA Loans Require No Down Payment
When financing a home with a VA loan, you are not required to have a down payment, there is no monthly mortgage insurance and the VA funding fee (required to be paid up front) can be financed into the loan.
In order to qualify for a VA loan, you must have a certificate of eligibility and a DD214.
The maximum loan amount for VA loans is generally speaking currently $417,000 and in some cases higher based on the Veteran’s entitlement amount.


The USDA No Money Down Program
The bad news about the USDA loan program is that it has been so popular in the last couple of years that they have run out of funding for 2010. The good news is that they are on the brink of getting more funding – and many lenders are accepting applications for the USDA loan program because funding is on the way.
Legislation that raises the “guarantee fee” to 3.5% and designed to make the USDA program self sufficient so it won’t run out of funds again is currently headed to President Obama’s desk for signature.
With the USDA loan program, the two main qualification points for the USDA loan program are that the property you are interested in purchasing must be eligible for USDA financing and you can’t make more than 115% of the median income for the county where you live.
No money down mortgage programs.
They are still available… if you meet the loan program criteria.

Contact The Mortgage Mark with any questions!   http://www.themortgagemark.com

mwilkins@capitalfmc.com